Produção de creme hidratante a partir do óleo essencial extraído da aroeira-da-praia (Schinus terebinthifolius Raddi)

Abstract

Forecasts for the beauty market indicate that it will reach around US$580 billion by 2027, with constant growth of 6% per year, according to global research by the McKinsey Global Institute. The cosmetics market is one of the most promising in Brazil, ranking fourth in global cosmetics research. Therefore, this work aims to develop a moisturizing cream, in accordance with the technical standards of the National Health Surveillance Agency (ANVISA), using the essential oil extracted from the fruits of the aroeira-da-praia (Schinus terebinthifolius Raddi) through the hydrodistillation technique. The fruits were collected, dried in ovens, crushed and subjected to hydrodistillation to extract the essential oil. Then, the oil was incorporated into two formulations proposed for the moisturizing cream. Three samples of formulation 1 (highest concentration of the oily phase and containing 1.76% of Aroeira essential oil) and formulation 2 (lowest concentration of the oily phase and containing 1.47% of essential oil) were subjected to the centrifugation test to check the stability of the cream. For preliminary stability testing, cream samples were exposed to extreme temperature conditions and subsequently to less extreme conditions in the accelerated stability study. This allowed the evaluation of organoleptic (appearance, color and odor) and physical-chemical (pH and density) characteristics. Afterwards, microbiological tests were carried out to investigate the presence of Staphylococcus aureus and total and thermotolerant coliforms in the cream. As a result, the essential oils presented yields within the range predicted by the literature, varying between 4.00% (w/w) and 6.90% (w/w). The three samples of formulation 1 showed phase separation in the centrifugation test, being failed to proceed to the next tests, which can be attributed to the inadequate concentration of emulsifying agent. Formulation 2 failed the preliminary and accelerated stability tests, as it presented significant changes in organoleptic and physicochemical parameters. In the microbiological test, the presence of Staphylococcus aureus and total and thermotolerant coliforms, microorganisms, was not detected.