Fitocosméticos: produtos naturais na prevenção do envelhecimento cutâneo

Abstract

The skin is an essential organ for life, which protects the entire human body against external aggressions and is able to express the action of the aging process, in which intrinsic and extrinsic factors, such as oxidative stress, lead to structural changes. However, the application of sunscreens and antioxidant cosmetics are considered alternatives for the prevention of aging. Herbal cosmetics have been developed, because in addition to being able to slow or inhibit the action of free radicals, they are considered less aggressive than those formulated with synthetic chemicals. However, adverse reactions to cosmetic products containing botanical extracts have been reported in the literature. Thus, the general objective of this work was to study the efficacy and safety of natural products found in phytocosmetics aimed at preventing skin aging. For this, a bibliographic review was carried out in the databases: Pubmed, Scopus and Capes. Articles and book chapters published between 2013 and 2019 in Portuguese and English were selected. As a result, it was found that the species Calendula officinalis, Camellia sinensis, Centella asiatica, Coffea arabica, Gingko biloba, Glycine max and Vitis vinifera indicate activity in the prevention of skin aging. The species C. officinalis, G. biloba and V. vinifera have antioxidant and photoprotective properties. The species C. sinensis has antioxidant activity and was able to positively regulate TIMP3 expression in UV-irradiated keratinocytes. C. asiatica products exhibited anti-glycant, anti-inflammatory activity and inhibited the enzymes elastase, hyaluronidase and metalloproteinase-1. The species C. arabica and G. max have antioxidant activity, the latter, also known as soy, has an inhibitory action on the enzyme tyrosinase. The natural products of the species mentioned above are of low toxicity, and reports of adverse reactions are rare. In addition, with the exception of the species C. officinalis and C. arabica, in vivo studies have shown the effectiveness of formulations containing the natural products of the other species studied in the parameters of hydration, viscosity and elasticity of the skin. Therefore, the incorporation of natural products in cosmetics has the benefits of biological properties, low toxic potential, as well as less environmental impact, as they are biodegradable and allow the use of industrial waste with cosmetic potential, such as those generated by the coffee and wine industries.